Braised Cabbage and Purple Potatoes

Good Bye Winter! I like to think of this meal as my good bye winter dinner. (Although it's probably premature; we're still a month away from the spring bounty here on the east coast, and I'm sure there are plenty of potatoes in my near future.) It's easy to think of this less then glamorous dish as peasant or "recession" food, but the results are satisfying and full of pure flavor. Cabbage gets a bad rap, but really is versatile and delicious, ranging from fresh and crispy in a slaw or salad to meltingly soft and sweetly caramelized, which is the case in this simple recipe handed down from my mom. The Cabbage benefits from a slow braise in a covered pot to fully soften it, before the lid is taken off and the water is allowed to evaporate, saving all the flavor and nutrients that are lost when boiled. The real magic happens next, when you throw in a generous nob of butter, and let your cabbage wedge caramelize, bringing out its sweet and buttery flavor. This elevates a simple side to a "can't get enough" revelation. Paired with potatoes and in this case a sweet sausage, and you have a complete meal, that a polish grandma or gourmet chef would be proud of.

I also feel its necessary to address the issue of smell. I know a lot of apartment dwellers who would hesitate to make this for fear of being that person in the building; have no fear. I've made this many times, and it only ever smelled sweet and buttery. The sulfurous stink only shows up when cabbage is overcooked, or unwashed cooking dishes are left to sit. I highly suggest throwing your braising pot into hot soapy water as soon as you are done with it, and you will only have envious neighbors.



the recipe:

1 small head cabbage
2 large potatoes
6 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoons chopped fresh or 1 teaspoon dried dill
salt
fresh ground black pepper


Remove loose, dried or blemished leaves from cabbage, and cut into quarters lengthwise, leaving the base intact. In heavy bottomed pan with tight fitting lid place cabbage cut side down and fill with about 1/2 - 3/4 inch cold water. Add 1 teaspoon salt to water and exposed cabbage and sprinkle with dill. Cover and simmer until cabbage is nearly completely soft, about 15-20 minutes. Towards end test often with point of knife to prevent overcooking. (If lid is slightly loose, cover pan with foil, or rotate cabbage halfway through cooking, and add water if necessary.) Remove lid from pan and increase heat to medium-low, allow remaining water to simmer vigorously until completely evaporated. Add 2 Tablespoons butter to the pan, shaking pan gently to distribute butter evenly. Saute cabbage without moving until the bottom edges are beginning to brown. Spread additional 2 tablespoons butter on top and exposed side of cabbage wedge. Either caramelize on remaining side, or adjust salt, season with pepper and serve as is. Meanwhile, cut rinsed potatoes into wedges lengthwise, and boil in salted water until tender (approx 20-25 minutes), drain and reserve. When Cabbage is done, remove with spatula to warmed serving plates, and add potatoes and an additional 2 tbsp butter to pan, scraping up any browned bits and gently stirring until potatoes are well coated and heated through. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with cabbage. Serves 2-4.

Curry Lentil Stew with Cilantro Oil

This Curry Lentil Stew is a twist on the traditional middle eastern red lentil soup with lemon. I realize it is not necessary to improve on the original, which is simple, perfect, and beloved, especially by vegetarians, but this soup is different. I gave it an Indian spin; adding ginger, curry, and saffron and then went new world with some potatoes, sweet potatoes, tomato, and hot sauce. The result is spicy and sweet layered on earthy, rich lentils and potatoes with a finish of fresh lemon and cilantro. This is a healthy vegetarian meal that doesn't remind you of it with every bight; it layers on the flavors, hits all the right buttons and leaves you fully satisfied.






















the recipe:

2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 sm onion, chopped
1 lg stalk celery, minced
1 lg carrot, minced
2 tbsp minced garlic
2 tbsp minced ginger
2 tsp curry powder
1/2 tsp cumin
1/2 cup tomato sauce, or chopped fresh tomato
1 cup pureed sweet potato
3 quarts cold water
3 tsp Sriracha Chili sauce
4-5 threads saffron (optional)
1 cup red lentils
1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1 inch pieces
2 potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 inch pieces
2 tsp sugar
salt
3 - 4 tbsp fresh lemon juice

cilantro oil:
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch cilantro
1 clove garlic
salt

serve with:
lemon wedges
Sriracha Chili Sauce


Heat Vegetable oil in Dutch oven, over medium heat. Add chopped onions, minced carrot and celery, and saute until gently caramelized: about 15 minutes. (Lower heat and scrape bottom of pan if necessary to avoid burnt edges) Add garlic, ginger, curry powder and cumin and saute 1 or 2 minutes. Add tomato and sweet potato puree and caramelize about a minute then add water, hot sauce, saffron and lentils. Bring to a boil and skim foam off surface. Lower heat and simmer 1 hour, skimming often. Add sweet potatoes, potatoes and sugar, and liberally season with salt. Simmer 2o minutes skimming often. Add lemon juice and adjust seasoning to taste.

Meanwhile, in blender, puree cilantro, olive oil, 1 clove garlic and a pinch of salt until smooth. Force through a sieve with a wooden spoon and reserve. (You will have extra cilantro oil for another use)

Ladle soup in warm bowls and drizzle with cilantro oil (alternatively, sprinkle with olive oil and chopped cilantro) Serve with with lemon wedges and hot sauce on the side. Serves 4-6

(Just to throw in one more twist; It is also surprisingly very good with polish kielbasa. Just chop the cilantro, omit the olive oil, and add sliced kielbasa in at the same time as the potatoes.)

Broccoli Cheddar Frittata/Tortilla

Italian frittata and Spanish tortilla - two different names, but a very similar concept. These omelet like dishes are nearly the same (most people think of them interchangeably), but there are some subtle differences, mainly: a frittata has a higher ratio of eggs, contains really any vegetable meat or cheese you can think of, and is finished in the oven. While a Tortilla is just as much a potato dish as an egg, and is made completely on the stove top.

I actually first came across the Italian frittata while working at a Provencal French Restaurant in Brooklyn. We made it for weekend brunch, and it was very popular and very good, though I'm not sure how very french it was? I loved how quickly it came together and how easy it was to customize, (much like an omelet), which makes it a natural for brunch. But I did not really adopt the concept in my home cooking until I came across its cousin the Tortilla a couple years later.

The first time I had a Spanish Tortilla was actually in Spain. I was, like many, a little perplexed by the name. At the time I was on a long backpacking trip and I craved anything familiar. This was not what it claimed to be, but it was delicious! It was much better then an American tortilla, and as I cut into it I realized it was a relative of the more common frittata. This one had eggs, onions, and layers and layers of thinly sliced potatoes.

I was reminded of my trip to Spain by this months issue of Gourmet Magazine, which has an article on the Camino do Santiago: our excuse to be backpacking across Spain. It made me think of the foods we ate in small bars and cafes all across the country: of course tapas, but also tortillas, empanadas, bocadillos (simple bar sandwiches of baguette and Chorizo or Ham), Caldo Gallego (cabbage potato soup), Ensalada Mixta (kind of a paired down Nicoise salad), olives, freshly baked bread, great inexpensive wine, and of course sweet flaky breakfast pastries and Cafe Con Leche.

For my frittata/tortilla I borrowed some techniques from both dishes: thinly sliced tortilla style potatoes, with frittata style veggies. I fried the potatoes much like a tortilla, but finished it in the oven like a frittata. The finished product was a great balance of moist tender eggs and toothsome veggies with the welcome tang of Cheddar and jalapeno. However you make this southern European stroke of genius, whether you call it a frittata or a tortilla, it is easy, flavorful, and satisfying.




















the recipe:

5 tbsp vegetable oil
1 sm onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 lg potato, peeled and thinly sliced
1 1/2 cup broccoli, cut into small florets
2-3 tbsp pickled jalapenos, chopped
1/2 cup extra sharp cheddar, cut into 1/4" cubes
8 eggs
fresh ground black pepper
salt

In small bowl, whip eggs season with salt and pepper, and mix in cheese and jalapenos. In oven safe 10" skillet (cast iron works great), heat vegetable oil on medium-high. (you want the oil hot so your veggies cook without absorbing too much oil) Add potatoes and fry, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add broccoli, onions, and a generous pinch of salt. Continue frying mixture until potatoes just begin to brake up when stirred: approximately an additional 5 minutes. (If potatoes start to brown, lower heat slightly) Add garlic and fry 1 minute. Scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom and evenly distribute potatoes and broccoli in pan.



















Pour egg mixture into hot pan, let bottom set 30 seconds, then lower heat as low as possible. Cook until outer edges are set: about 10 minutes. Broil in oven until top is lightly browned: 3-5 minutes. Run a knife along the outside of the pan, and let rest about 5 minutes before loosening bottom with spatula and sliding onto serving dish. Serves 4.

Oven Fries

These Oven Fries taste as good as french fries, without requiring a nap. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking french fries, that most beloved of junk-foods. But; add these Oven Fries to your fry repertoire and you could be eating fries morning, noon, and night - these fries are actually food. The inside is soft and moist and the outside is crisp and well seasoned. In a side by side comparison both fries are neck and neck. The Oven Fries compete by... well, by not competing, actually. These fries taste different. Where all french fries pretty much taste the same, (and pretty much taste like fry oil), these actually taste like potatoes: crunchy, salty, fatty potatoes! For some this may be a negative, but, if you actually like the taste of a quality potato, they might even be better. So, especially if you've gotten yourself a few pounds of some fancy potatoes, (you really should buy organic, the regular ones are pesticide sponges) and actually want to taste them, cook up a batch of these.

I hypothesize: (my friends know this theory well) french fries eaters fall into one of two camps: Square or Pointy. Take your plate of regular cafe french fries; you have a mix of fries cut from the center and the outside of a potato. Now; I contend: one either likes the the square fries from the center or the pointy ones from the outside; the slightly soft, or totally crisp. Personally, I like "square fries", so these are my ideal fry. Crispy on the outside (especially the edges) but soft and moist in the middle. If you want a crispier fry (I personally can't imagine why) you can easily roast these a bit longer, edging them into "pointy fry" territory.

Oven fries make a great blank canvas for your favorite spice or herb mixture. I usually use olive oil, salt, fresh ground black pepper, and a little Cajun seasoning. (I wouldn't necessarily title these Cajun fries, but if you doubled the amount of Cajun you could call them that.) They would also be great with chopped herbs, "taco seasoning", Parmesan cheese, even curry. I can't really think of anything that doesn't go well with potato. These also invite you to experiment with dips. Nothing much beets french fries and ketchup, but lots of condiments go well with fries - the obvious: ketchup and mustard, also hot sauce, BBQ, steak sauce, mayo, and sour cream. A few combos that come to mind are chipotle mayo, spicy ketchup, or herbed sour cream.

Some of the tricks to fool-proof fries are, first: size. In order to get a crisp fry without a deep fryer, you have to roast them for a pretty long time in the oven. You could get away with cutting these a bit smaller, but too much smaller and you risk a dry fry. Secondly, the fries must be spread out in a single layer. It helps if you can give each piece a little bit of space to encourage the moisture to evaporate. You'll also want to roast them at a high temp. to speed evaporation, and ensure a crisp fry. Though it does not help in your mission for crispness, you should season your potatoes before you bake them, or you will have a flavorless interior. Season the potatoes right before you throw them in the oven, or the salt will leach out liquid and wash all of your seasoning off the outside of your fry.




















the recipe:

3 lbs potatoes
1/3-1/2 cup olive oil
1-2 tbsp Cajun seasoning
salt
fresh ground pepper


Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Thoroughly wash potatoes and remove any blemishes. Cut lengthwise into cm. thick slices. Cut these slices lengthwise again into cm. sticks.

In a large bowl sprinkle with olive oil and stir to lightly coat each peace. Liberally season with salt and pepper and stir in Cajun seasoning.



















Spread on lightly oiled sheet pan, (line with foil for drastically easier clean up) and roast for approx 1 hour. (If using two pans, rotate at least once.) Once potatoes have crisped enough to be moved easily, about 45 minutes, flip with tongs or spatula and continue roasting to desired crispness, approx. 15 minutes.