Weekly Cheese: Tomme Crayeuse

This weeks Weekly Cheese is one of my very favorite: Tomme Crayeuse (tohm cray-YUHZ). It is made from the milk of mountain grazing cows in the Savoie region of France in the Swiss Italian Alps. This buttery, semi-soft, soft-ripened cheese is layered with damp earthy flavors including straw and mushroom in the rind, and a mildly milky but tart almost citrusy center. When eating cheese I like to imagine myself enjoying a food with ancient roots and a long history; I was surprised to learn that this cheese is actually a relatively recent invention. It was developed in the nineties by a French Affineur (an expert in maturing cheese) Max Schmidhauser. He partnered with a cheesemaker in order to make a cheese superior to the areas classic: Tomme de Savoie; and I'm very glad he did. This beautiful cheese has a dusty brownish grey and white rind with bright yellow spots caused by cellulose in the cows diet. The ivory interior is smooth and soft with a slightly crumbly dense center getting a little gooey as you get closer to the rind which is thin and pliable enough to easily slice and delicious to eat.



















Reading the process raw milk undergoes to become this delicious cheese gave me a whole new appreciation for the art and craft of making cheese. One secret to this amazing cheese is two stages of aging for a total of about two to three months: the first in a warm moist environment; much like a sauna, the second in an equally moist but cool cave. The first stage loosens and softens the outer crust of the cheese and the second brings out the earthy mushroom flavor and preserves the milky center. This particular combination of techniques creates a moist flavorful wheel or tomme that now competes for popularity with Tomme de Savoie, and in my book is the hands down winner.
























I like this cheese best on a good piece of bread, or simple crackers.

Weekly Cheese: Boucheron

This is the first post, of hopefully many posts, in a new feature I'm calling the "Weekly Cheese". I'm working at a cheese and Charcuterie counter at a small gourmet food market, and am immersed in the delicious world of cheese: "real" cheese. I say real cheese because once you start exploring this diverse and flavorful world, you'll probably never go back to supermarket cheese again. For those of you who have already discovered this world, you know; these cheeses are alive with flavors and textures, and each wheel comes with a story and each cheese a history, some going back hundreds of years. If your cheese experiences are limited to blocks of cheddar and string cheese, find yourself a good cheese counter, and dive in. Don't feel intimidated, just go for it. I recommend tasting at least a few cheeses every time you go, and buy small amounts (a quarter pound is pretty common) of a variety of cheeses. You should really buy only enough cheese to eat in a day or two, and go back for more freshly cut from the wheel or block. Don't be dissuaded by a cheese you dislike; likes and dislikes are necessary to narrow down your choices as you taste your way through the worlds huge variety of cheeses. Some people dislike an entire category of cheese, like sheep's milk, or aged cheeses, or stinky cheeses, these preferences will help you and your cheesemonger to make your first choices. I just caution you to test your preferences periodically. As you expand your palette and try more cheeses that fall out of the norm, you will find yourself able to tolerate more diverse flavors and textures.

For my first Weekly Cheese post, I will start with Boucheron [BOOSH-rawn]; an accessible, very briefly aged (5-10 weeks), soft, pasteurized, goat cheese from the Loire Valley in France. This cheese is a looker, a bright white bloomy rind covers a small forearm length log. Your cheesemonger will, using a wire, slice from this a perfect disk that reveals a beautiful cross section of bright matte white and dove gray. It's visual appeal makes Boucheron a great cheese for a party or cheese board. But its easy-going taste and price make it a great everyday cheese. The middle of this laid back cheese is mild, dense and crumbly like a fresh goat often referred to in the US as a Chevre, but then it gets interesting. As you can see, there is a layer of gooey cheese around the large chalky core, and finally a thin bloomy layer of mold similar to a brie style cheese. This is because of the nature of a "bloomy -rind" or "soft-ripened" cheese, (like brie) which age from the outside in. Thanks to the magic of mold you get two cheeses in one; a creamy, mushroomy, "brie" style, contrasting with a dry and clay-like, mildly tangy fresh goat. Boucheron also plays well with others. It is especially good on salads or with grapes, and compliments just about any bread or cracker. I especially like it with a simple spinach salad.























Finally, I know people don't need much encouragement to talk about cheese, but I ask, if you have tasted Boucheron or are inspired to taste it by this post, contribute to the discussion. Let us know what you think; what are your favorite pairings?, any similar cheeses you would recommend? Where do you get your cheese? any tips on serving or storage? etc....

Avocado Sandwich / Grilled Cheese with Apple

This is the story of my giant loaf of bread. I have a fantastic loaf of whole wheat peasant bread from my local farmers market. I've eaten it fresh with butter, toasted with butter and honey, butter and jam, and butter and Marmite, (I think someone needs to take the butter away from me) and I still have half a loaf left. It's been unseasonably warm, so soup dunking is out. I rummaged around in my fridge, took an inventory of ingredients, and settled on a sandwich.

I wanted to make a sandwich that would highlight the wheaty flavor and chewy texture of my rustic loaf. (Too often whole wheat bread is just swapped with white, no consideration for the fact that they taste different.) You'll notice this casual lunch option is vegetarian, which just goes to show how easy it is to make a sandwich: meat, veggie or other, if you abandon the limiting concept that a sandwich is made with cold cuts, lettuce, tomato and mayo. There are really unlimited other ways to make a meal out of "stuff between bread."

One quick option that most vegetarians know is the avocado sandwich. It's hard to go wrong with an avocado, there are so many ways to prepare this savory fatty fruit. One common mistake is parring avocado with strong flavored ingredients like sharp cheddar cheese, if its really going to shine, you don't want to smother its subtle fresh green flavor. So if in doubt, keep it simple. While I've made much more complicated sandwiches with avocado, this is the bare bones version. Just a perfectly ripe avocado liberally seasoned with salt and fresh ground black pepper, some spicy mayo (mayonaise and Sriracha hot sauce) and sprouts on whole wheat bread. (If it hadn't been nearly 90 degrees, I would have substituted a fried over easy egg for half of the avocado, which is one of my favorite sandwich combinations.) A perfect balance of subtle flavors and textures: rich salty avocado, sweet spicy mayo, crunchy refreshing sprouts all on my nutty, sweet, chewy, soft wheat bread. It was gigantic, but I ate the whole thing and I felt great afterwords, no food coma, and energy all day. This satisfying sandwich is not low in fat, but its really good for you.

The next day the weather turned, my peasant loaf was yet to be finished, and a grilled cheese seemed like a no-brainer. Extra sharp cheddar has no problem standing up to my wheaty friend, but it needed something to lighten it up. I love the combo of apples and cheddar, and all I needed was a little tang to bring it all together. I made a quick relish of apples, cornichon pickles and raisins. The vinegary sweet filling went great with the cheese, almost like a raw chutney. It may seem like a wacky combo, but if you think about it; apples and cheese is a classic, and you often get cornichons, dried fruit and crusty bread with a cheese plate, put it all together and you get a gooey, crusty, salty, sweet sandwich. (If your not into the "chutney" idea you could easily make this sandwich with just cheddar and apple, maybe a little mustard.) Now, I better devise a fate for the remainder of my loaf; I'm thinking croutons. I know, not very glamorous, but I have a head of green leaf lettuce that is begging for some croutons and rich creamy dressing, mmmm...I'll keep you posted.


























Apple Relish:

3 small apples, cored and diced
4-6 cornichons, chopped
2-3 pickled onions, minced
1 1/2 Tbsp, chopped raisins

Combing ingredients and let sit at room temp for at least 10 minutes for flavors to marry. (Don't worry, the vinegar keeps the apples crisp and white)

Broccoli Cheddar Frittata/Tortilla

Italian frittata and Spanish tortilla - two different names, but a very similar concept. These omelet like dishes are nearly the same (most people think of them interchangeably), but there are some subtle differences, mainly: a frittata has a higher ratio of eggs, contains really any vegetable meat or cheese you can think of, and is finished in the oven. While a Tortilla is just as much a potato dish as an egg, and is made completely on the stove top.

I actually first came across the Italian frittata while working at a Provencal French Restaurant in Brooklyn. We made it for weekend brunch, and it was very popular and very good, though I'm not sure how very french it was? I loved how quickly it came together and how easy it was to customize, (much like an omelet), which makes it a natural for brunch. But I did not really adopt the concept in my home cooking until I came across its cousin the Tortilla a couple years later.

The first time I had a Spanish Tortilla was actually in Spain. I was, like many, a little perplexed by the name. At the time I was on a long backpacking trip and I craved anything familiar. This was not what it claimed to be, but it was delicious! It was much better then an American tortilla, and as I cut into it I realized it was a relative of the more common frittata. This one had eggs, onions, and layers and layers of thinly sliced potatoes.

I was reminded of my trip to Spain by this months issue of Gourmet Magazine, which has an article on the Camino do Santiago: our excuse to be backpacking across Spain. It made me think of the foods we ate in small bars and cafes all across the country: of course tapas, but also tortillas, empanadas, bocadillos (simple bar sandwiches of baguette and Chorizo or Ham), Caldo Gallego (cabbage potato soup), Ensalada Mixta (kind of a paired down Nicoise salad), olives, freshly baked bread, great inexpensive wine, and of course sweet flaky breakfast pastries and Cafe Con Leche.

For my frittata/tortilla I borrowed some techniques from both dishes: thinly sliced tortilla style potatoes, with frittata style veggies. I fried the potatoes much like a tortilla, but finished it in the oven like a frittata. The finished product was a great balance of moist tender eggs and toothsome veggies with the welcome tang of Cheddar and jalapeno. However you make this southern European stroke of genius, whether you call it a frittata or a tortilla, it is easy, flavorful, and satisfying.




















the recipe:

5 tbsp vegetable oil
1 sm onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 lg potato, peeled and thinly sliced
1 1/2 cup broccoli, cut into small florets
2-3 tbsp pickled jalapenos, chopped
1/2 cup extra sharp cheddar, cut into 1/4" cubes
8 eggs
fresh ground black pepper
salt

In small bowl, whip eggs season with salt and pepper, and mix in cheese and jalapenos. In oven safe 10" skillet (cast iron works great), heat vegetable oil on medium-high. (you want the oil hot so your veggies cook without absorbing too much oil) Add potatoes and fry, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add broccoli, onions, and a generous pinch of salt. Continue frying mixture until potatoes just begin to brake up when stirred: approximately an additional 5 minutes. (If potatoes start to brown, lower heat slightly) Add garlic and fry 1 minute. Scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom and evenly distribute potatoes and broccoli in pan.



















Pour egg mixture into hot pan, let bottom set 30 seconds, then lower heat as low as possible. Cook until outer edges are set: about 10 minutes. Broil in oven until top is lightly browned: 3-5 minutes. Run a knife along the outside of the pan, and let rest about 5 minutes before loosening bottom with spatula and sliding onto serving dish. Serves 4.

Three Cheese and Vegetable Pot Pie

It was Oscar night, and we made a household event of it. We all like movies but not usually award shows. Naturally we turned to the number one way to easily make something fun; turn it into a competition. (Any occasion to do so is seldom passed up at my house.) The family filled out ballots predicting winners in the top categories, and decided on a prize of handmade caramel candies. Spoiler: I tied for first! (which is good, cause I'll readily admit I hate losing, also caramel is my favorite sweet.)

I decided to make something special for dinner. I had some great cheese, fresh veggies, and a lot of people to feed. I considered the usual starches: potato, pasta, bread...., in the quantity I needed, they just didn't seem red carpet to me. I wanted something impressive, but not too frilly. Then it hit me: pastry crust... pot pies.. Giant Pot Pies! There is something awe inspiring about a whole pie, and it seemed a perfect dinner for a Sunday in February. And I have to say these Cheese and Vegetable Pot Pies were a smash hit with all the critics in my house. (sorry, I just had to do it)


the recipe:

2 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 sm onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, 1/2 stalk minced, remainder sliced
2 carrots, 1/2 carrot minced, remainder halved (quartered if large) and sliced
1/2 lb mushrooms, 3 minced, remainder sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tbsp butter
3 tbsp flour
4 cups milk
1 sm bay leaf
1 tsp. thyme
1/3 cup Gruyere cheese, shredded
1/3 cup extra sharp Cheddar, shredded
3 tbsp Parmesan, shredded
1 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tbsp lemon juice
freshly ground black pepper
salt
1 9" double pastry crust


Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In large heavy skillet or dutch oven, saute chopped onion and minced celery, carrot, and mushrooms with a pinch of salt in vegetable oil over med heat until well caramelized: approx 15 min. (Lower heat and scrape bottom of pan as needed.) Add garlic and saute 1 min. Dump out and reserve caramelized vegetable mixture (or push to the side of pan) Add butter; stir in flour and saute 1 -2 min. Whisk in milk until smooth, then stir in caramelized veggies, bay leaf and thyme. Simmer a few min. until thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Add sliced veggies and simmer until nearly tender. Stir in shredded Gruyere, Cheddar, Parmesan, parsley, and lemon juice. Remove bay leaf. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Poor into prepared pastry crust, crimp edges with fork for "authentic" pot pie look. (brush with an egg wash if you want a shiny surface) Bake 35 -45 min. until center is golden brown. (If the edge begins to get too brown, use pie crust shield) Let rest 10 min. before serving. Serves 6-8 people.



















I was surprised at how filling these were. I'm not kidding when I say, one slice is enough, the most ravenous could maybe put down two. The buttery crust and rich cheesy filling are decadent and satisfying. Serve with a salad, and you have a meal.