Sunday, July 12, 2009

Weekly Cheese: Boucheron









































This is the first post, of hopefully many posts, in a new feature I'm calling the "Weekly Cheese". I'm working at a cheese and Charcuterie counter at a small gourmet food market, and am immersed in the delicious world of cheese: "real" cheese. I say real cheese because once you start exploring this diverse and flavorful world, you'll probably never go back to supermarket cheese again. For those of you who have already discovered this world, you know; these cheeses are alive with flavors and textures, and each wheel comes with a story and each cheese a history, some going back hundreds of years. If your cheese experiences are limited to blocks of cheddar and string cheese, find yourself a good cheese counter, and dive in. Don't feel intimidated, just go for it. I recommend tasting at least a few cheeses every time you go, and buy small amounts (a quarter pound is pretty common) of a variety of cheeses. You should really buy only enough cheese to eat in a day or two, and go back for more freshly cut from the wheel or block. Don't be dissuaded by a cheese you dislike; likes and dislikes are necessary to narrow down your choices as you taste your way through the worlds huge variety of cheeses. Some people dislike an entire category of cheese, like sheep's milk, or aged cheeses, or stinky cheeses, these preferences will help you and your cheesemonger to make your first choices. I just caution you to test your preferences periodically. As you expand your palette and try more cheeses that fall out of the norm, you will find yourself able to tolerate more diverse flavors and textures.

For my first Weekly Cheese post, I will start with Boucheron [BOOSH-rawn]; an accessible, very briefly aged (5-10 weeks), soft, pasteurized, goat cheese from the Loire Valley in France. This cheese is a looker, a bright white bloomy rind covers a small forearm length log. Your cheesemonger will, using a wire, slice from this a perfect disk that reveals a beautiful cross section of bright matte white and dove gray. It's visual appeal makes Boucheron a great cheese for a party or cheese board. But its easy-going taste and price make it a great everyday cheese. The middle of this laid back cheese is mild, dense and crumbly like a fresh goat often referred to in the US as a Chevre, but then it gets interesting. As you can see, there is a layer of gooey cheese around the large chalky core, and finally a thin bloomy layer of mold similar to a brie style cheese. This is because of the nature of a "bloomy -rind" or "soft-ripened" cheese, (like brie) which age from the outside in. Thanks to the magic of mold you get two cheeses in one; a creamy, mushroomy, "brie" style, contrasting with a dry and clay-like, mildly tangy fresh goat. Boucheron also plays well with others. It is especially good on salads or with grapes, and compliments just about any bread or cracker. I especially like it with a simple spinach salad.























Finally, I know people don't need much encouragement to talk about cheese, but I ask, if you have tasted Boucheron or are inspired to taste it by this post, contribute to the discussion. Let us know what you think; what are your favorite pairings?, any similar cheeses you would recommend? Where do you get your cheese? any tips on serving or storage? etc....

16 comments:

  1. There's an awesome European cheese shop here, and I try to get some once a week.


    Unfortunately I can't remember names off hand, and often just go by what I feel like at the time (after sampling to make sure I like it)

    I would love your job - cheese is really awesome.

    ReplyDelete
  2. After reading this I must try this cheese. I'm sort of new to appreciating good cheese. Last summer my friends introduced me to Brie covered in a Blueberry Chipolte sauce. I even found a recipe for canning my own Blueberry Chipolte sauce. I'm drooling just thinking about it! Anyways, that was the turning point in my life where regular grocery store cheese was just not good enough. I have yet to find a place to buy good cheese in Wichita. Better yet, it's still on my "to do" list to learn how to make my own cheese. Mark's brother is a cheesemaker so I have somebody who could mentor me.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Wow, you should make your own cheese! You already got the milk part down, and I think your soup making skills would really serve you well in the cheese biz. I wonder if Mark's bro would know where to find good local cheese in your area. I love the more worldly cheeses, but there are a few of my very favorite cheeses made locally just outside of the city.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I have found that kansas is severely lacking in good cheese. We tried to get the cheese maker, Fred, to come live by us and make cheese but he has decided to build a cheese factory in Bayfield instead. He has a flock of milking sheep and is in the process of getting the permitting in place for the factory.

    Another one of my favorite cheeses is a well aged raw milk cheddar. Very good all on it's own.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Cheese in Bayfield! thats awesome for everyone we know in WI, but not good for Kansas :)

    Raw milk cheese is sooo good. I'm pretty sure that Boucheron is only made with pasteurized milk, because it is illegal to import un-aged raw milk cheeses in this country. :(

    ReplyDelete
  6. Oops, ha ha, in my first comment I meant to say soap not soup. I'm sure soup skills would be useful, but soap making skills are a little more unique.

    ReplyDelete
  7. I truely love this type of cheese. So um, hey Jessie, when you haveing a cheese party?

    ReplyDelete
  8. Yeah, I thought I'd let the soup thing slide. There is a rule in the US that all raw milk cheeses must be aged a minimum of 60 days. I guess the bad bacteria can't survive that long and if they did it would be very obvious your cheese was bad.

    ReplyDelete
  9. I just discovered this wonderful cheese at Fresh Market! Wow! Delicious! Tangy! Creamy! Melts in your mouth! My favorite way to eat it is to just cut a couple of small chunks and savor each bite. No crackers, no bread, nothing to mess up this wonderful cheese!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Jessie, thank you so much for your wonderful description of Boucheron cheese. I must admit I am not a fan of goat cheese and can usually smell it coming a mile away. Last night I had a pasta dish at a local restaurant that was made with a "Boucheron fondue". Not knowing Boucheron, I ordered it. The minute it was placed in front of me, I turned to my husband and said "goat cheese"! My tastebuds confirmed my nostrils, yet when I inquired with the waitress as to the type of cheese in the dish I was told "Gruyere". I've cooked with that cheese on many occasions and knew that what I was tasting did not have Swiss roots. I feel vindicated that my nose and mouth were spot on.

    I love your blog and am happy that this cheese brought me to it. As a real cheese lover (except for goat!) I look forward to your weekly reviews.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Fabulous! Keep it up..best, Priya

    ReplyDelete
  12. Hey! I just ate this cheese on my video cheese eating silly blog www.thecheesefreak.com. I found it a bit dull, but pretty tasty. If you like - How cool is it that you're doing weekly cheese. I'm similarly obsessed! I'd love to have you do weekly cheese as a video tasting and I can post it to my dorky project. Email me if you like thecheesefreak@gmail.com...

    ReplyDelete
  13. I just had this cheese several times in Sevilla, roasted but not too warm, with herbs sprinkled over it and accompanied with raspberry jam, sliced baguettes and dried small crackers in a tapas bar in Seville, Spain. It was fabulous, so we returned a week later to have it again, despite the dead bulls heads on the walls.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Great description. I plan on putting thin slices of this over a warm white garlic bean spread.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Ate this on plain crackers with a little honey on top - magical. Consistency, flavor and pleasure were well balanced.

    ReplyDelete